Being vegetarian kind of limits my dietary options here, not that I expected anything different. I'd love to be out and about and trying all the different foods Córdoba has to offer, but unfortunately most of the meals center around meat.
I live on my own and cook my own meals, so the meat-based local specialties haven't been a problem in that sense. Still, my cultural immersion is less than it would be if I were an omnivore. Food is very important here.
But I haven't been completely cut off from Spanish cuisine. Thankfully, if I go out with friends I can always have a tortilla or some salmorejo.
I had my first Spanish tortilla-- a potato omelet rather than a flour or corn flatbread-- in the United States, where a friend of mine who'd lived in Granada prepared me the recipe her host-mom had served her. Although I usually despise onions, they gave the dish flavor. I was happy to try it again in Spain, first at a friend's house and later at a bar where it was served in a bocadillo. More on that later.
Salmorejo, a creamy vegetable spread similar to gazpacho, is a specialty of Córdoba. It's served with bread and has a rich, garlicky taste. I tried it with some Spanish friends, who, although appalled by my vegetarianism, wanted me to get a taste (har har) of Córdoba. It was free with my order of tinto de verano, a red wine mixed with lemon soda. Tinto de verano is great because it doesn't taste like red wine at all, and red wine is gross.
I have also tried the vegetarian version of a third Spanish dish, paella. It's rice-based, with bits of vegetables in it. It's tasty and filling, but probably too much work for me to make myself. Were vegetarian paella more readily available, I would still stick to salmorejo and tortillas.
My friend Margaux changed my life by introducing me to Cien Montaditos (which also has a location in Florida!!!!!). Every Wednesday, this crowded bar serves bocadillos and drinks for only one euro. Bocadillos are essentially tiny sandwiches that are filled with everything from hot dogs to chocolate. My favorite is the four cheese option.
There's also a place here called Duffin Dagels. Something tells me they might have been very slightly inspired by a certain American business. Also, donuts don't exist. They're called DUFFINS, duh.
A Salmorejo recipe from an actual Spaniard, please. I love tapas and all the little spreads that come with it. PS-red wine is NOT gross. You need to try a St. Èmilion or a Pomerol - Château Trotanoy. Henri and I are going to have some real work on our hands weaning those all too American taste buds away from processed trash and onto food in its pure form. Yes yes, I'm the one who had you try Champagne and Cheetos but that was for a laugh. Now is the time to learn to eat the things your news friends have grown up with.
ReplyDeleteAs Mary above wrote, red wine is not at all 'gross'. There are so many styles that one is bound to suit you. A light Beaujolais-style, young wine may change your mind.
ReplyDeleteWhat about Sherry? you're in Spain after all. And a chilled Fino or Manzanilla is a great compliment to cheeses, olives, nuts, salads, light pasta dishes.
Tinto de verano is really an alcopop - or red wine spritzer if you like - I had it at a party held by Spanish students, but you've told me the official name.
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ReplyDeleteMary, I'll give those a shot, but I don't know if I'll like them. Are there any sweet red wines?
ReplyDeleteRoger, I'll see if I can find some good sherry. Most of the time I go to student bars that primarily serve beer (which I also find gross-- is that allowed? :).
I definitely had a Pavlovian response to this post. Eating in Spain sounds like fun! Browsing tapas must be a delightful way to get together with people. And in Europe even now when you frequent a place you sometimes develop a friendship with the owner which deepens the experience.
ReplyDeleteHere I collected my first winter farm share last Saturday. Though I love experimenting with all those root veggies I didn't eat growing up, I dream of a place like Cordoba which maybe has lush local fresh tomatoes even in winter?
It's also not allowed to find beer gross! Well not really of course, it's up to you, but perhaps tastes change if the beer is the best it can be. Not sure Spain is a known producer of fine beer, but wine and sherry definitely.
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